From nostalgic alleyways to bizarre architectural wonders, Osaka hides a different face behind its flashy modern core. Here is the list of fascinating retro and
cultural destinations, each with guidance on how to get there from Osaka Station.
1. Shinsekai – The “New World” of Showa Nostalgia and Shogi Legends
Beneath the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower lies Shinsekai (“New World”), a district that encapsulates early 20th-century dreams and gritty Showa-era charm. Once modeled
after Paris and New York, it’s now a shogi lover’s pilgrimage spot with a spiritual “Shogi Monument” and Osho Club, a former shogi hall turned kushikatsu restaurant.
2. Jan-Jan Yokocho – Street Food Heaven
Stretching about 180 meters, this alley near Tsutenkaku is lined with retro izakayas and food stalls offering Osaka specialties like kushikatsu. The name “Jan-Jan”
refers to the sound of drums once played to lure in customers.
3. Tamade Hondori Shopping Street – The Birthplace of Super Tamade
This gritty, local shopping street in Nishinari Ward is the origin of the famous ultra-cheap supermarket chain Super Tamade. Lined with old eateries and bargain
shops, it’s a window into Osaka’s real working-class culture.
4. Karahori Shopping Street – History and Films in a Timeless Townscape
Featured in the NHK show Buratamori, Karahori retains Edo-era vibes with canal alleys, historic homes, and old-style cafés. It’s a slice of old Osaka near
the modern city center.
5. Kitahama Retro Building – British Tea in a Meiji-Era Gem
Built in 1912, this preserved Western-style structure houses Kitahama Retro, a charming British tea room. It's a nostalgic pocket of elegance in the financial
district and was a filming location for the NHK drama Asa ga Kita.
6. National Museum of Ethnology – World Cultures Under One Roof
Located inside Expo Commemoration Park, this giant museum exhibits everything from ritual masks to global oddities. A cultural maze that’s perfect for the
intellectually curious.
7. Osaka Loop Line Departure Melodies – A Musical Journey
Each of the 19 stations on JR Osaka’s Loop Line has its own signature melody. For example, Osaka Station plays “Yappa Suki Yanen,” while Shin-Imamiya offers
Dvořák’s New World Symphony.
8. Matchamachi (Matsuyamachi) – Toys, Dolls, and Fireworks Paradise
A historic wholesale district for Japanese toys, fireworks, and decorations. Prices are low and the atmosphere old-school.
Yesterday, we visited Matsuyamachi – affectionately known as *Matchamachi* – a nostalgic corner in Osaka that once bustled with the energy of wholesalers dealing in Japanese traditional sweets
(*dagashi*), dolls, fireworks, and toys. While its official name is *Matsuyamachi* (まつやまち), locals commonly call it *Matchamachi* (まっちゃまち), a nickname so ingrained that even some of the signage
in the shopping arcades uses it.
Nestled in the southeastern part of Osaka's Chuo Ward, the area stretches along the Matsuyamachi-suji street near the Osaka Metro station of the same name. Historically, this street was one of
the busiest wholesaler zones in the city – rows of toy stores, doll shops, and candy warehouses once lined the road from north to south, serving not only locals but also shopkeepers from across
Japan.
Even now, you can still find places to buy *dagashi* in bulk, offering an affordable and charming taste of the past. These old-fashioned sweets, often colorful and quirky, are a nostalgic treat
for Japanese people and a fun discovery for tourists.
However, like many traditional districts, Matsuyamachi is changing. What was once a vibrant wholesale hub is gradually being transformed. Many stores are now shuttered, and the area is giving way
to towering apartment buildings. The skyline is dotted with high-rise condominiums, and the number of functioning wholesaler shops is shrinking each year. What remains feels like a quiet echo of
what used to be a thriving marketplace.
Historically, Matsuyamachi's connection with traditional toys and dolls runs deep. The doll industry here can be traced back more than 400 years, to the aftermath of the Siege of Osaka in 1615.
Roof tile makers who settled in the area began crafting small clay dolls in their spare time. These dolls became so popular that many craftsmen shifted entirely to doll-making, and the industry
flourished.
Toy shops, on the other hand, started gaining traction after World War II. Matsuyamachi became known for affordable tin toys, some made using surplus military cans from the occupying forces.
Wholesalers and manufacturers clustered here, earning the area a reputation as Osaka’s go-to district for inexpensive toys.
Today, as you walk down Matsuyamachi-suji, you can still spot stores selling *hina ningyo* (dolls for Girls’ Day), children’s toys, and *dagashi*. Yet there’s a sense that time is catching up
with this once-bustling street. The charm remains – in the old shop signs, the dusty shelves, and the warm shopkeepers – but so does a quiet melancholy. It is a place where tradition is slowly
being overtaken by modern city life, one tower block at a time.
Still, if you are in Osaka and wish to catch a glimpse of an old merchant town’s spirit, Matsuyamachi is worth a visit. Buy a bag full of *dagashi*, stroll past the fading storefronts, and
imagine the days when the street was alive with voices of buyers and sellers, surrounded by toys, laughter, and candy wrappers fluttering in the wind.
9. Nishinari – Osaka’s Deep Culture District
Often misjudged, Nishinari is full of soul and nostalgia. Think cheap eats, retro manga (Jarinko Chie was set here), and authentic Showa architecture. A
true urban time warp.
When I first mentioned to friends in Osaka that I would be spending time in Osaka’s Nishinari Ward, their reactions were almost uniform: "Be careful," "Isn’t that place dangerous?" or simply,
"Why there?" For decades, Nishinari has carried a reputation as one of Japan’s most troubled urban neighborhoods. Reports of poverty, homelessness, day laborers, and crime have shaped an image
that persists, even among Osaka residents. But the truth on the ground is more complex—and, in many ways, far more hopeful.
Yes, Nishinari does have a long history of social challenges. It's home to Kamagasaki, Japan’s largest community of day laborers, and has seen occasional riots in the past. Incidents like the
still-unsolved 2009 death of a female doctor—a dedicated physician who worked in the Tsurumibashi shopping street clinic and was found dead in suspicious circumstances—added to the area’s
notoriety. Her mysterious death raised serious questions about police investigations and left a lasting impression on local residents. Even today, her case remains a painful, unresolved memory of
how this district has often been ignored or mishandled by authorities.
But Nishinari is not defined by crime. When you actually visit, you will not find a warzone. Instead, you’ll see an old, working-class neighborhood with aging buildings, narrow alleys, public
bathhouses, and a slow but steady rhythm of daily life. It feels very real—unpolished, but authentic.
In recent years, a quiet but significant transformation has been taking place. More and more tourists, both domestic and international, are discovering Nishinari. Why? For one, the area offers
extremely affordable accommodation, making it attractive for budget travelers. But beyond that, there is a raw charm in its retro streets, local izakayas, and unique atmosphere.
Major players in Japan’s tourism and hospitality sector have taken notice. Hoshino Resorts, one
of Japan’s most respected hotel chains, is now entering Nishinari. In April 2022, they opened OMO7 Osaka by Hoshino Resorts right on the border of Nishinari and Naniwa Wards. The hotel combines stylish comfort with a deep connection to
the local culture, signaling a new wave of investment and optimism in the area.
What makes Nishinari so special is that, unlike heavily gentrified districts in Tokyo or even other parts of Osaka, it has not lost its soul. You can still walk into a Showa-era coffee shop where
regulars smoke and chat with the owners like old friends. You can try a 300-yen curry rice at a mom-and-pop diner that has been in business for decades. You’ll see elderly men sitting quietly in
public parks, often forgotten by society but still living their days with dignity.
Yes, you should be aware of your surroundings. Nishinari has its social issues, and you may encounter people living rough or struggling. But the idea that it is unsafe is outdated and
exaggerated. Personally, I have walked through Nishinari many times, day and night, and never once felt in danger. In fact, the locals often smile and greet you. There’s a sense of community
here—one that is disappearing in many parts of urban Japan.
Nishinari does not need to become the next tourist hotspot. It does not need a total makeover. What it needs is understanding. Tourists who visit respectfully, businesses that invest responsibly,
and media that avoid sensationalism all have a role to play in changing the narrative.
The neighborhood has experienced hardship and loss, like the mysterious death of the young doctor who tried to help the community. But it also shows resilience and character. If you are looking
for the “real” Osaka—not just the neon lights of Dotonbori or the high-end shops of Umeda—Nishinari might surprise you.
10. Nozaki Mairi Festival – Local Flavor at Its Best
From May 1–8, Nozaki Kannon Temple in Daito City hosts one of Osaka’s most charming festivals. Expect lanterns, nostalgic food stalls, and a heartfelt
atmosphere.
11. Namba Dotonbori Hotel – Statues of the World Await You
Four quirky statues—representing people of various ethnicities—stand outside this hotel as a symbol of hospitality and luck. A photogenic curiosity in the heart of
Minami.
If you have ever walked through Osaka’s lively Dotonbori area, you may have spotted a hotel with a row of massive sculpted heads guarding the entrance. That’s the Dotonbori Hotel, a quirky and
memorable spot that has gained attention, especially among foreign visitors looking for something unique.
Let’s start with the good. The location is simply unbeatable if your goal is to explore Dotonbori – the canal, the famous Glico sign, food stalls, and shops are just steps away. Public transport
is convenient too, with train stations and bus stops nearby.
As for hospitality, many of our readers and Onegai Kaeru News followers – as well as our own experience – agree: the hotel goes out of its way to pamper guests. Free drinks, ice cream, cup
noodles, massage chairs, rental bikes, even pocket Wi-Fi – all complimentary. Families will be glad to know that children can borrow pajamas and LEGO, and breakfast is handmade, hearty, and even
comes with cute, take-home chopstick holders.
The staff are friendly and often international, and even when we called in advance with questions, they responded with sincere courtesy.
However, the hotel is not without its issues. Most rooms are small – cozy for a solo traveler or couple, but tight for families or those carrying large suitcases. It was difficult for us to fully
open two carry-ons. The layout also left something to be desired, with awkwardly placed furniture and high beds that weren’t ideal for everyone.
Soundproofing is another downside. The walls are thin – you can hear sneezes, conversations, and unfortunately, even loud guests past midnight. Some travelers reported noise from other rooms and
the hallway, including groups who left their doors half open to talk late at night.
Though some guests found their rooms cleaner and more pleasant than before, others noted significant hygiene problems: stray hairs in the shower and towels, dirty bathroom fixtures, and extremely
diluted soap and shampoo. Complaints included broken or unreliable elevators, and messy emergency stairwells that looked like they had not been cleaned in years – not ideal for a hotel that
offers so many services.
There were also concerns about smoking: even in non-smoking rooms, guests noticed cigarette smells coming in from other rooms or floors. This can be especially disturbing for non-smokers or those
with sensitivities.
With cleanliness and cigarettes' smell issue, these have been very common issues at many many hotels not only in Japan though...
The hotel’s immediate surroundings include izakayas and love hotels – part of Osaka’s nightlife charm to some, but potentially uncomfortable for families or solo female travelers. The area can be
loud at night, and while we personally enjoyed the local energy, it's something to consider.
Dotonbori Hotel is a lovely hotel yet mixed bag. It shines in hospitality, free amenities, and a fun, welcoming spirit that many chain hotels lack. But it’s let down by cleanliness, noise, and
facility issues that could make a stay frustrating depending on your expectations.
Would we stay again? Possibly – especially for the breakfast and unbeatable location. But we’d bring earplugs, travel light, and lower expectations about room comfort.
12. Namba Yasaka Shrine – A Roaring Lion Head
A gigantic lion head-shaped shrine said to “swallow evil” and bring business success. The structure is both spiritual and surreal.
For many people who do not live in Osaka, Namba Yasaka Shrine is not exactly a familiar name. In fact, until recently, even locals often overlooked it. Tucked away from the usual tourist routes
and just far enough from popular spots like Dotonbori or Tsutenkaku, it was not the type of place you would think to include in your itinerary. But all that has changed in recent years—thanks to
one very striking feature: a massive lion head stage.
The first time you see it, the giant lion head (shishi-gashira) looks almost surreal. It is huge, expressive, and honestly, a little strange—but in a good way. Standing nearly 12 meters tall and
11 meters wide, it is said to “swallow evil spirits and bring good luck,” according to local beliefs.
To many Japanese we presume that this was one of these "tries" of venues trying to stand out - not always a respected move in that time.
But in an age where Instagram and global tourism seek out the most unique and photogenic places in Japan, the lion head has quickly gained popularity, similar to how the once-obscure Daruma
Temple (Shorinzan Daruma-ji) became a viral hit.
The history of Namba Yasaka Shrine goes back centuries. According to legend, during the reign of Emperor Nintoku, an epidemic spread through the area. A divine figure known as Gozu Tennō (often
associated with disease prevention and healing) appeared, and the local people began to worship him. That was the beginning of the shrine.
For many years, it was known as the “Lower Shrine of Naniwa” (Naniwa Shimomiya) and served as the guardian shrine of the surrounding area. By the late Heian period (around the 11th century), the
shrine was well known for its worship of Gozu Tennō, and a temple complex with several sub-temples had grown around it. However, following the Meiji Restoration and the separation of Shinto and
Buddhism, the temple complex was dismantled, and the shrine became a recognized Shinto institution in 1872.
Like much of Osaka, the shrine did not escape the destruction of World War II. It was completely burned down in the March 13–14 air raids of 1945. The current main hall was rebuilt in 1974, along
with the now-famous lion head stage (shishi-den), which enshrines the fierce spirit of Susanoo-no-Mikoto, a storm god from Japanese mythology.
The shrine is open to the public, but be careful—the gates close at 5:00 p.m. sharp, and you will not be able to enter after that. If you happen to arrive just a bit too late, there is still a
small workaround: you can take a photo through the gap below the gate. It is not ideal, but better than missing it completely. (We even saw a tall tourist trying to climb the gate to peek
over—but we strongly do NOT recommend doing that.)
Namba Yasaka Shrine is a great example of how places once forgotten can gain new life in the modern age. It is a mix of history, myth, and modern-day visual surprise, and it is definitely worth
the short detour from central Namba. If you are looking for something off the beaten path in Osaka—without venturing too far—this might just be the spot.
13. Maishima Incineration Plant – Eco Facility or Art Museum?
This colorful waste plant was designed by Austrian artist Hundertwasser. With its vibrant, organic forms, it looks more like an art museum or a Gaudí
cathedral.
-
Access: Take the JR Yumesaki Line to Sakurajima Station (25 min, ¥260), then transfer to a local bus to Maishima (approx. 15 min, total fare ~¥400). Total:
~40 min, ¥660.
14. BONUS TIP – All-Day Osaka Transport Pass
For tourists planning to explore multiple locations, the Osaka Amazing Pass (1-day: ¥2,800) or ICOCA prepaid card (rechargeable) can help save time and money across
buses, subways, and trains.
